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March 30, 2009

Hero Worship at the New Defonte's

Defonte’s has been slinging sandwiches in Brooklyn since 1922, and that’s long enough to get it right. Now it’s brought its hound-beloved Italian heros to Manhattan at a new shop near Gramercy Park.

guttergourmet recommends the signature hot roast beef sandwich: rare meat, sliced to order, with fresh house-made mozzarella and eggplant fried to the crunch point. He’s also sampled fried shrimp, served only on Fridays and Saturdays. “They’d stand up to the best shrimp po’ boy I’ve had in New Orleans, another city where the Italian amore still exists,” he says. And off the menu, jon advises, there’s a great egg and mozzarella sandwich, a few bucks cheaper than the other breakfast choices.

guttergourmet—a connoisseur of New York hero haunts past (Rosario’s, DiBella Brothers) and present (Alidoro, Biellese, Mike’s Deli)—has somehow never managed to visit the original Defonte’s. “My loss, but the new Manhattan branch has brought that old NYC Italian love on a roll with them,” he writes.

Defonte’s Sandwich Shop [Gramercy]
261 Third Avenue (at E. 21st Street), Manhattan
212-614-1500

Board Links: Defonte’s-To hell with Quiznos, Subway and Blimpie
defonte’s coming to nyc?
Defonte’s of Brooklyn opens in Manhattan

March 30, 2009

Smoke, Spice, and Rigatoni

Boston Jerk Cuisine had Jim Leff sold from the first bite. “I’m totally in love,” swoons Jim, who describes beautifully smoked jerk pork and chicken. But the best thing he had there was rigatoni with smoky jerk chicken in creamy sauce. “Sounds awful,” he allows. “It is pure heaven, a culinary miracle.”

Boston Jerk Cuisine [Bronx]
3377 Boston Road (near E. 213th Street), Bronx
718-881-8102

Board Link: Boston Jerk Cuisine (Great Jamaican in North Bronx)

March 30, 2009

Fresh Mediterranean Flavors at Trigo

The Mediterranean menu at Trigo ranges from small plates to big ones, but fans keep coming back to the irresistible flatbread starters. DavyTheFatBoy singles out the onion tart, accented with tangy cheese, a hint of Middle Eastern spice, and a tasty green apple salad. “This is something I’d get hungry for,” he says. westchesterdiner goes for taleggio and garlic.

Beyond flatbread, hounds recommend marinated olives, pickled pumpkin, and saffron pappardelle with lobster and tomato confit, which westchesterdiner considers one of her “desert island” dishes. And for dessert, Davy suggests trying the doughnut-like chocolate bomboloni or fennel cake with lemon mousse and strawberries.

“Overall this was the most interesting and pleasing assortment of flavors I’ve had recently,” he adds, “and nothing was forced, it just worked.”

Trigo [Tribeca]
263 W. Broadway (at Sixth Avenue), Manhattan
212-925-1600

Board Links: Trigo - some very appealing flavors
Best New Restaurant in Tribeca? - Trigo!

March 30, 2009

Jell-O Quake!

This morning’s 4.3 temblor near San Jose had the Bay Area (and us here at CHOW Central) quaking like Jell-O. If only earthquakes were as beautiful in real life as they are in Jell-O miniature maker Liz Hickok’s artwork. If you haven’t seen it, here’s Hickok’s Telegraph Hill Earthquake, in which she takes advantage of her chosen medium’s characteristic wiggly qualities.

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March 30, 2009

Coming up Next: Kosher Everclear

Everybody knows that the one thing kosher-keeping Jews crave during Passover is a really great margarita. It’s been that way ever since the first agave-based beverage was served across the street from the Second Temple in Jerusalem, sometime around 400 BCE, when a bunch of rogue … proto-Aztecs … sailed over from the New World in a ship made out of … hell, let’s say some unknown crystalline substance that might have come from outer space. Therefore, it’s shocking that it’s taken this long for a spirits company to launch a kosher tequila pegged to both Passover and Cinco de Mayo. But good things come to those who wait: Agave 99, launched by New York businessman Martin Silver, is coming to a market near you.

March 27, 2009

Mixed Curse of CSA Bounty

Slate fronts a story that affects a small percentage of the general population, but a rather larger percentage of its affluent, high-minded readership: What to do with all those frickin’ vegetables from your CSA.

Big quantities of sometimes exotic or less-than-delicious produce come part and parcel with the CSA lifestyle; writer Catherine Price calls Mark Bittman to ask about coping strategies, talks to Greens founder Deborah Madison, and eventually considers the expedient strategy of simply covering everything in béchamel sauce.

Image source: thebittenword.com under Creative Commons

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